Seam sanding: A beginner's guide
The grits of sandpaper used in the process MAY depend on the quality of resin, but that is just speculation on my part.
Now, I used the Wet-sanding process. The parts were either soaking wet or in a bowl of water and my kitchen is very well ventilated, but you should always wear a protective respirator when doing any kind of sanding or modding to resin. NEVER dry-sand indoors or without proper protection!!! That is toxic, yo!
Materials used: Face-mask, gloves, water, Magic Eraser, 70% Alcohol, white paper towels, Testors/MSC, and sandpaper (280\320\400 and 600 grit).
I set my workstation up by covering the area with a large, ratty towel. Use a light colored one, because you don't want to stain your doll. It's also a good idea to keep some ratty rags nearby for post-sanding wipe down. I kept a bow of water next to me for the purpose of keeping the sandpaper wet and for dunking the pieces when they get muddy.
So... On to the sanding!
I've heard that some people don't dismantle their dolls when they sand, but I thought that may create issues with dust and wet and whatnot, so I went ahead and took him apart.
I went over his whole body with a magic eraser and 70% alcohol. While doing this I wrote down any and all discrepancies on the body for future reference while sanding. (uneven resin near the joints, any small gouges, etc.) This process takes HOURS and sometimes you stop seeing things that are right in front of you, so I write it down.
When he was spotless I went to town!
I started with a 280 grit sandpaper (in small, circular motions so it won't leave scratches) focusing mainly on the seams until they were
almost flush.
Every once in a while, wipe the doll down with toweling or give it a dunk in the water and wipe it to check your progress. It can be difficult to see exactly what's going on through the wet and grit, so check it often.
I moved onto 320 grit, further evening the seams and moving farther out the limb so as not to create a big, flat line where the seam used to be.
I used a 400 grit to even out the sanded area, working in small circular motions and going outside of where I knew was sanded.
Moved onto 600 and sanded the body from neck to toe.
When I was finished I went over the entire body again with Magic eraser and alcohol to remove any crud from the process.
Three coats of Testors/MSC and he's finished!
I gave him a light dusting of peachy pastel to check for unseen scratches, and have discovered none so far.
All in all this took almost 12 hours spread out over 4 days. Whew!
I know some people will go as high as 1000 -1200 grit, but I think it depends on personal taste and the individual doll. If you use a grit that's TOO high, you run the risk of having a shiny doll. It seems like it took longer than it should have, but with a process like this, I'd rather it take longer and be perfect than be quick and scratch my doll to high heaven.
Thank you for visiting!
Some One Commented:
I actually find that 400 grade sandpaper is too fine. ^_^;;; leaves too mirror of a finish on matte dolls. I FINISH sand at 320, and everything is nicely matte, no coating required.
The grits of sandpaper used in the process MAY depend on the quality of resin, but that is just speculation on my part.
Now, I used the Wet-sanding process. The parts were either soaking wet or in a bowl of water and my kitchen is very well ventilated, but you should always wear a protective respirator when doing any kind of sanding or modding to resin. NEVER dry-sand indoors or without proper protection!!! That is toxic, yo!
Materials used: Face-mask, gloves, water, Magic Eraser, 70% Alcohol, white paper towels, Testors/MSC, and sandpaper (280\320\400 and 600 grit).
I set my workstation up by covering the area with a large, ratty towel. Use a light colored one, because you don't want to stain your doll. It's also a good idea to keep some ratty rags nearby for post-sanding wipe down. I kept a bow of water next to me for the purpose of keeping the sandpaper wet and for dunking the pieces when they get muddy.
So... On to the sanding!
I've heard that some people don't dismantle their dolls when they sand, but I thought that may create issues with dust and wet and whatnot, so I went ahead and took him apart.
I went over his whole body with a magic eraser and 70% alcohol. While doing this I wrote down any and all discrepancies on the body for future reference while sanding. (uneven resin near the joints, any small gouges, etc.) This process takes HOURS and sometimes you stop seeing things that are right in front of you, so I write it down.
When he was spotless I went to town!
I started with a 280 grit sandpaper (in small, circular motions so it won't leave scratches) focusing mainly on the seams until they were
almost flush.
Every once in a while, wipe the doll down with toweling or give it a dunk in the water and wipe it to check your progress. It can be difficult to see exactly what's going on through the wet and grit, so check it often.
I moved onto 320 grit, further evening the seams and moving farther out the limb so as not to create a big, flat line where the seam used to be.
I used a 400 grit to even out the sanded area, working in small circular motions and going outside of where I knew was sanded.
Moved onto 600 and sanded the body from neck to toe.
When I was finished I went over the entire body again with Magic eraser and alcohol to remove any crud from the process.
Three coats of Testors/MSC and he's finished!
I gave him a light dusting of peachy pastel to check for unseen scratches, and have discovered none so far.
All in all this took almost 12 hours spread out over 4 days. Whew!
I know some people will go as high as 1000 -1200 grit, but I think it depends on personal taste and the individual doll. If you use a grit that's TOO high, you run the risk of having a shiny doll. It seems like it took longer than it should have, but with a process like this, I'd rather it take longer and be perfect than be quick and scratch my doll to high heaven.
Thank you for visiting!
Some One Commented:
I actually find that 400 grade sandpaper is too fine. ^_^;;; leaves too mirror of a finish on matte dolls. I FINISH sand at 320, and everything is nicely matte, no coating required.